Walk the London Loop in Easy Stages: Section 21

Havering-atte-Bower to Harold Wood – 4.3 miles in Harold’s Domain

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London Loop Walking Sign - Rupert Parker
London Loop Walking Sign - Rupert Parker
The London Loop encircles Greater London, covering a distance of around 150 miles. It's like the M25 for walkers and is an easy getaway from the bustle of the big city.

From the attractive village of Havering-atte-Bower this section first passes through high-lying, undulating farmland, to reach Noak Hill. It then follows a narrow green strip through the suburb of Harold Hill, which lies beside Carter's and Paine's Brooks. These streams flow into the River Ingrebourne, which itself joins the Thames at Rainham Creek. Generally fairly level walking, mostly on rough paths, tracks and grass, although the last section is on tarmac.

Directions from Romford Station

To rejoin the previous section of the Loop, take a bus to Havering-atte-Bower from Romford. Get off the bus at the green in front of the flint Victorian church along the B175. The Loop route goes down the hill of the B175 and past the Royal Oak pub on the left.

Havering-atte-Bower and Edward the Confessor

Casual visitors to Havering-atte Bower may be surprised to discover that this pleasant little village was once the ancient seat of kings and the site of a vast Royal Palace of which nothing remains. Edward the Confessor founded a holy retreat here nearly 1000 years ago. Later William the Conqueror and King John built hunting lodges. Slowly, over the next 600 years, a large Royal Palace was established, with Charles I being the last monarch to stay here. It fell into decay and by 1815 there was nothing left. A Victorian church stands where the original chapel once stood and there are riding stables on the site of the old palace stables.

Joseph Hardwick Pemberton’s Round House

The path leads to open fields and, through the trees, a strange round building can be seen on the right. The Round House was once the home of the Reverend Joseph Hardwick Pemberton (1852-1926), one of rose breeding’s legends. With his sister, Florence, he devoted his life to cultivating roses and, by 1896, he was growing over 4000. His true claim to fame was the origination of a group of varieties which he called Hybrid Musks, roses which survive and bloom when all around perish. They are large bushes, in bloom more or less continuously, bearing flowers of varying size, mostly white, pale pink, and pale yellow, in gigantic clusters.

Pyrgo House, Playground for Princess’s Mary and Elizabeth, daughters of Henry VIII

At the woodland's edge stands a pair of iron gateposts which once marked the entrance to the grand residence of Pyrgo. Nothing now remains of the house save this one rusting sentinel. In the 16th century, Pyrgo played an important role in determining the royal succession. Henry VIII had seen little of his second daughter, Elizabeth, since her mother's execution in 1536. In 1542, Henry VIII met her when he summoned both of his daughters to dine with him at the ancient house. Henry was impressed by Elizabeth and her sister, Mary, and decided to reinstate their place in the line of royal succession. This was confirmed by Parliament in 1544, restoring the sisters to their place after Edward thus giving England one of her finest monarchs when Elizabeth became queen.

Foxburrow Wood, Home to Mistle Thrush and Great Spotted Woodpecker

The route turns right here and climbs a rise to give impressive views to the south, before entering Foxburrow Wood. This ancient woodland, with its massive Hornbeams is home to many woodland birds including the increasingly rare Mistle Thrush and the colourful Great Spotted Woodpecker. Foxburrow Wood is a site of importance for nature conservation.

The track leads over farmland and eventually emerges into Noak Hill Road near the Bear pub. It then follows Carter’s Brook all the way to Harold Wood.

Harold Wood named after King Harold, Killed at the Battle of Hastings

Harold Hill and Harold Wood probably derive their names from various connections with King Harold, the successor of Edward the Confessor. He hunted deer in the forest that covered all this area, but lost his life and his crown at the Battle of Hastings. As the path leads to Harold Hill railway station it passes the King Harold pub on the right.

Continuation of the London Loop: Section 22 - Harold Wood to Upminster Bridge

This section goes through the community woodland of Pages Wood, and follows the Ingrebourne river to Upminster Bridge. The highlights include Upminster Windmill and the wooden artworks in Pages Wood. The terrain is almost completely level with one or two short gentle slopes.

Rupert Parker, Dan Hall

Rupert Parker - Rupert Parker is journalist, photographer, cameraman and TV Producer. He specializes in factual programming and has worked for the BBC, ...

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