Madeira is a sub-tropical Portuguese island in the mid Atlantic Ocean. Every January it hosts a week long walking festival providing three or more daily guided hikes with various levels of difficulty. The event is the brainchild of writer and photographer Terry Marsh who, this year, had to supervise from a distance as he was recovering from heart surgery. He needn’t have worried; for many of the participants this was their third year and they knew exactly where to go and what to do.
Madeira's Paths are a Combination of Levadas and Cobbled Trails
An extensive network of water channels criss-crosses the island. These are known as “Levadas”, from the Portugese verb “to carry”, and they’re also pedestrian routes as access was required for maintenance. Often only wide enough for one person, with hair-raising drops on one side, they are marvels of engineering. There's also a series of cobbled roads, built by a Royal decree of 1815, linking every village. This multitude of paths makes for a walker’s paradise.
Climbing Pico Ruivo, Madeira's Highest Mountain
This year the festival was held from January 11th to 16th in the capital Funchal. During December, Madeira experienced the worst weather for seventy years. Continous strong winds and heavy rain caused landslips and many of the Levada tunnels were flooded. As a result, because of safety concerns, some of the walks were officially closed and substitutes had to be found. In fact, on an island blessed with an abundance of trails, this was no problem, and there were few grumbles.
The weather also dogged the first couple of days of the festival. Drizzle and low cloud made visibility a problem but, as the week went on, things gradually improved. By the fourth day it was perfect for the Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço, a spectacular trail along the cliffs to the most Easterly point of the island.
But the best was left for last. The hardest and highest treks were scheduled for Saturday, both climbing Pico Ruivo, Madeira’s highest peak at 1862m. It's usually a magnet for clouds, but walkers were rewarded with sunshine, clear skies and spectacular views. It was the perfect climax to what had been a less than auspicious start.
Festival Attracts International Clientele Including Many British
One of the great strengths of an event like this is the companionship. Most walkers were from the UK so language was no barrier. And there’s nothing better to throw people together than a good old soaking. Strangers on day one had become firm friends by day five, exchanging addresses and vowing to meet again. At the free farewell dinner at the splendid Adega da Quinta restaurant, everyone seemed part of one big happy family. Next year there’s talk of holding it later, perhaps in May, when all the flowers will be in bloom. But, whatever the month, there’s no doubt that the old faithful will be back.
Funchal Flights, Hotels, Restaurants, Excursions
TAP Portugal has regular scheduled flights to Funchal.
Estalagem Quintinha de São João (291 740 920) is a delightful small hotel. centrally located, and all its rooms are comfortable.
Restaurant Adega da Quinta (291 91 05 30) is a couple of miles outside town, in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, and serves typical Madeira cuisine.
Forte de Sao Tiago, (291 235 470) is situated in the old fort in Funchal and has a more up market take on Madeira specialties.
Armazèm do Sal (291 241 285) is a converted salt warehouse and the kitchen delivers imaginative local and international dishes.
Rotas Selvagens is a one-stop online booking agency for a variety of activities including walking, climbing, mountain biking, paragliding, canyoning and dolphin watching.
Rupert Parker - Rupert Parker is journalist, photographer, cameraman and TV Producer. He specializes in factual programming and has worked for the BBC, ...
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