There are over 600 varieties of Olives growing in the Mediterranean and the taste of the oil from each region is distinctive. It’s not just dependent on the variety but also on the soil and the micro-climate. The best oil is the first pressing and is known as “Extra Virgin” and, in Italy, DOP status (Protected Designation of Origin), is a mark of quality, laid down by law. Riviera Ligure DOP is one of only 38 Italian oils to meet this high standard, and is made in Liguria from a single variety, known as Taggiasca. They’ve been growing these here since 400 BC but most of the trees were planted in the 17th Century, and the oil is fruity and sweet.
Rules of Olive Oil Tasting
Igino Gelone, from the Organisaton of Ligurian Tasters, dispensed advice before the tasting commenced:
- Pour one tablespoon of oil into a small glass and warm the sample to 28 degrees centigrade with the palm of the hand in order to release and intensify the aromatic volatile compounds.
- Smell the sample and try to capture every sensation whether pleasant or unpleasant that comes from it. Is it fresh or is there a taste of rancidy?
- Put a few drops onto the tongue and bring the tip to the roof of the mouth, sucking in a little air through the sides of the mouth to release the volatile compounds.
- Think about the basic characteristics of the oil. How fruity is it? Does it have any bitterness or piquancy? Is it light and sweet, or strong and pungent?
The Taste of Riviera Ligure DOP
The Extra Virgin oil from Riviera dei Fiori in the West of Liguria smelt fruity with no bad aromas. On the tongue there was a faint hint of bitterness but was light and quite sweet, like dried fruit. Pungency is a biting sensation in the throat but this was absent and there was a reminder of a pleasant slightly almond taste. Oil tends to get stronger the further South the olives are grown and this Northern variety was extremely light.
For contrast, there was a none DOP Ligurian oil to taste, which, although fruity was more bitter and pungent but not unpleasant, although it couldn’t match the refinement of the first. Then there was a Spanish oil, chosen to put everything into context. It was also fruity with a strong smell of Eucalyptus but was bitter and pungent with very little sweetness. The Ligurians had made their point and Chef Giorgio Locatelli opted for the single variety Taggiasca to pair with his dishes.
Giorgio Locatelli Cooks at Refettorio Restaurant
Before he served up lunch in his Refettorio restaurant, Giorgio explained that his first rule of olive oil matching is to pair a regional dish with oil from the same region. After all, this is how cooking develops, making the best of local ingredients, and learning over time what works with what. His point was that the oil should support the food and never overwhelm it. Each dish on the menu got a drizzle of the light Ligurian oil before serving:
- Octopus salad with new Potatoes, Taggiasca Olives
- Fresh Lasagnette with Pesto, Potatoes and green Beans
- Cuttlefish stew with fresh Peas, Pine Kernels and Tomatoes served with white Polenta
- Roasted Rabbit, turned Potatoes, Pine Kernels and black Olives
- Flourless Chocolate sponge served with Olive oil ice cream
The meal was an unqualified success, the flavours of the fish and meat enhanced by the fruitiness of the oil, coming through loud and clear. The texture of the Olive oil ice cream was not to everyone’s taste, but there was no doubt that it worked well with the Chocolate sponge. As a final note, Giorgio made the point that oil is at its best as soon as it’s been pressed and it’s all downhill after that. Its enemies are light, temperature and oxygen so it should be stored in dark bottles at around 14-16 degrees centigrade and be drunk within one month of the bottle being opened. Like wine, it repays good quality care and should be savoured..
Rupert Parker - Rupert Parker is journalist, photographer, cameraman and TV Producer. He specializes in factual programming and has worked for the BBC, ...
